Woman on the Train

Colette Patterns' Fall 2011 Palette Challenge

In spite of only finishing a few of my chosen garments for the Spring 2011 palette challenge put on by Colette Patterns, I really liked the disciplinary focus it gave to my spring sewing (and fabric buying).  I'll be attempting to complete their fall 2011 palette challenge, with the following garments:

1.  Draped, long-sleeved winter dress, to wear with boots.
2.  Draped, short-sleeved silk blouse.
3.  Chanel-style cardigan or collarless jacket.
4.  Semi-flared high-waisted jeans, in a classic not-too-dark denim rinse.
5.  Long-sleeved jersey top.

I have been posting my sewn spring and summer wardrobe sporadically on my BurdaStyle studio, but will do a post soon, as a sort of checklist, to see how much of my proposed spring sewing I actually accomplished!

Images from the Metropolitan Museum Database, Gilt Groupe, Vanessa Jackman, the FIT Collection of Chanel Sketches, Vogue and style.com, as well as various blogs.

Clothing for someone else.

I've just finished two garments I was hired to make for someone else, with one more to go.

It's made me change the way I sew for myself, in that I usually take my time (over several months, if necessary) finishing projects.  This summer I've had these other designs hanging over me, so every piece I've worked on for myself has been sewn in one or two days.  The compressed time frame means I get nearly instant gratification, but it also means I have less time to puzzle through tricky fitting and construction snags.

A few pictures of the first garment:

It's a cowl-necked raglan-sleeved blouse, sewn in multi-colored silk charmeuse and black silk gazar.  It is unlined, with Hong Kong-finished seams.

The front is cut on the bias, while the back is on the straight grain.

The second garment is an unlined seafoam-green linen dress, with 3/4-length sleeves, in-seam pockets and a simple princess-seamed pleated front.  

The collar has an asymmetrical overlap that mimics a lapel.

The inside of the dress-front, with the in-seam pockets flared out like wings!

The final garment will be another day dress, probably in raw silk, with kimono sleeves and a skirt inspired by this practice-drape in muslin:

Woman on Court St., Brooklyn

I couldn't decide, so I chose rainbow...

Starting the Sailor Skirt

I've been wanting a pair of sailor pants for years, but every time I try them on, I remember how comical I look in high-waisted pants.  Foolish doesn't being to describe it--it's more like an upside-down lollipop.  In spite of my limitation, I love the slimming effect of two rows of buttons running up to the waist, and the lacing at the back waist works like a corset, but somehow more Popeye-wink and less Victoria's Secret-leer.


I've decided, at least until I accept my lollipop shape, I'll stick to sailor skirts.  They're easier to fit, anyway.

Here's the basic design I'm working on.  Posting this, I realize the top front button needs to be doubled.  I'll be working from my basic sloper.  I remember a burdastyle tutorial on sailor-ifying a bottoms pattern, but I'm not finding it right now.  I'll post it in if I turn it up.


This'll be made in a lightweight navy silk suiting I have from fashionfabricsclub.com, and probably underlined in a lightweight cotton (not sure about this yet).

Spring 2011 Sewing Plan

I think I've figured out at least the tip of my spring sewing iceberg -- a gentle mix of basics and frivolity.

From left to right:

Blue hammered silk sleeveless wrap-dress.

Navy polka-dot silk faille gathered short-sleeved blouse.

Metallic linen cuffed short-shorts, with invisible back zipper.

Beige microfiber trench coat, using Simplicity 4084.

Top-handled purse, in leopard and caramel leather.

Navy silk suiting sailor skirt.

All patterns by me, unless otherwise noted.  The first three patterns are finished, and have gone through one muslin.  The trench coat will get a muslin, the handbag will be slowly drafted, and the sailor skirt will be based on my basic skirt sloper.